NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE'S Debut Collection for Louis Vuitton
Understated, young, contemporary and relevant New prints,
new bag shapes aptly describes the Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Ready-To-Wear debut
collection by Ghesquière for Louis
Vuitton, showcased at the just concluded Paris Fashion Week .
"Today is a new day. A big day," Ghesquière wrote
in his show notes. "You are about to witness my first fashion show for
Louis Vuitton. Words can't express exactly how I am feeling at this
moment..." Although his beaming smile as he took his bow said he'd done
what he came to do.
REVIEW OF THE COLLECTION BY VOGUE JESSICA BUMPUS
It was sharp, glossy and modern as we expect from
Ghesquière, all those little nuances and slick stylistic details we knew of him
at Balenciaga here at play: cropped proportions up top for little shrunken
jumpers tucked into twisted belts on tight trousers that nipped in at the waist
and then tightly clung to the leg all the way down; and short stiff A-line
glossy or quilted skirts for that sense of sci-fi futurism that he does so
well.
He focused mostly on an inverted silhouette, occasionally
wavering for empire lines and babydoll styles for a nod to the Seventies that
continued in the colour palette (of maroon, mustard, black, blue and varying
shades of brown) and then on to little natty jackets whose collars were razor
sharp, or waistcoats too. There was a buoyancy in dresses whose focus was on
the shoulder, a fluted frill held in place by a black panel across the chest -
the same lightness could be found in skirts that unraveled from a knitted
waistline and then down into feathered segments.
And of course there were accessories to covet. There
couldn't not be. Here we had curve-heeled booties in red, black and brown
leathers, some boasting the LV logo, while little box bags riffed on the
luggage heritage of the house, incarnated as mini trunks. Elsewhere it was
little bowling bags and logo-ed clutches scrunched like bows
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